Tuesday, September 20, 2016

Day 5, The Cabot Trail

The continental breakfast at the Auberge was just that, cereal, yogurt, muffins, fruit and toast, but at least the skies were clear, albeit a bit cool. Off we go along the coast. The scenery is exceptional, blue skies, rolling hills, rocky coast and crashing waves. The road weaves along the coast and then heads inland before returning to the sea at Pleasant Bay. From Pleasant Bay the road once again turns east into the mountains to Cape North where we take a side trip to Bay St Lawrence.



There is very little traffic and the riding enjoyable with temperatures in the upper 60's. We stop at a local farmers market in search of some fresh cheese, but none is to be had. Another side trip brings us on a very scenic drive out to White Point, then to Nell's Harbour back on the main route and down to Ingonish.



 Ingonish is the major tourist destination on the Cabot Trail, with several Inns restaurants and the famous Keltic Lodge. There are several nice beaches, fresh water and salt water fishing, hiking and a well known golf course. So needless to say, it's crowded and expensive in Ingonish, so we pass on by. The road is still great as we cruise along the Atlantic. In a short while DeeDee is getting hungry so we stop at the "Bean Barn Cafe". Their sign reads "Everything Made Fresh". DeeDee, being a fan of Italian subs, orders an Italian Panini and I order their "Famous Sea Food Chowder"  The panini is two small pieces of toasted bread with pepperoni slices, tomato sauce and a little melted cheese, my cup of chowder is mostly potato and flour...  $23. We've had a few good meals, but mostly disappointed so far.

Just past Indian Brook the road divides with the Cabot Trail heading inland and the lessor road staying along the coast to the Englishtown Ferry. We opt for the ferry, as most of the traffic seems to be staying on the main road. The ferry terminal is a small shack with no one in attendance, a sign gives us all the information we need. The ferry runs every 30 minutes, we can see it docked on the far side waiting for vehicles. We are the only ones there so we park the bike, pull out half a block of cheese, a few granola bars and half a bottle of wine and enjoy the peace, quiet and view. A small motor home pulls up, looks at us, looks at the ferry and turns around and leaves... No adventure in their blood.



In a bit the ferry departs from the other side pulling itself along an under water cable. Apparently there are a fair number of these older cable ferries still running throughout the Maritimes. Two cars unload and we drive up the old rusted ramp, pay our $6 fare as two folks from New York drive up and  join us. "Keep the bike upright' the attendant tells us with a smile, and off we go. In ten minutes we are unloading and on the road again.



The drive now becomes just a drive, the road is fairly straight, the scenery benign. As we enter Nyanza, DeeDeec spots a small sign for a brewery with a tasting room, we turn around to check it out.  Big Spruce Brewing is a small building with a neat little outdoor seating area. Out front is a food truck with awesome looking food... if we had only known.  Inside the brewery they offer 4 oz glasses of any of their six current brews. We try the Wit Lemon Ginger, the Shame on You Boxing Rock IPA, the Stark Craving Mad IPA and Tim's Dirty IPA. They are all really good. A local musician is setting up to play, boy could I get comfortable.. if we had only known...




Just past Nyanza the road widens, we turn off the hi-way and head west on a nice road that brings us to Mabou and then down to Port Hood. The only glitch is that my Blair Witch GPS tries to send us down a rail road bed and a bicycle trail!

We stop at a grocery and liquor store for wine and cheese and check into our room at the Hillcrest Hall Inn. Fresh baked cookies await our arrival.


The sun is shining and the Inn faces west, it should be a fine evening to watch the sunset.  We unpack and shower, open the wine and cheese, sit on the porch and play some cards. The sunset is as advertised...





We decide to save a few bucks and get some food at the little food truck and bring it back. This food truck doesn't quite have the selection of the one at the brewery, but it will do. Burger and fries, fish and chips... and wine.   A few more homemade cookies and off to bed.







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