Mucho Aves

Leaving the cold and dark of the Northeast winter we spend a day travelling, getting settled in. The morning brings a warm sun, and the music of the birds. Each morning I revel in the chorus of so many different songs. Outside our trailer I place halved oranges. I am fascinated at how the birds share. The bright orange Baja Orioles, the Gila woodpeckers the common red finch, several others that I don't recognize and even the white winged doves all take turns pecking away at the fruit. Hummingbirds of all colors and sizes flit about sucking nectar from the many bright bougainvillea flowers.

A block away by the sea is another world, full of birds. Pelicans, so awkward on the ground, glide gracefully inches above the water. A squadron of Blue Footed Boobies circles, and on the signal of the squadron leader, fold their wings and strafe the water like darts. Moments later they all pop to the surface, and re-group. some successful, some not. Terns and Gulls wait to steal anything they can from the others. Cormorants dive and surface, Egrets and Sandpipers stalk the shallows. Regal Frigates soar, then skim the water precisely, stabbing an unsuspecting sardina.

The arroyos and canyons bring us to yet another world, Roadrunners dart, Cactus Wrens chirp, Ravens and vultures soar together in the rising thermals. Long legged meadowlarks prance through the shallow streams. Red Tail Hawks and Golden Eagles scour the hillsides for prey.

At some point we all wish we could be a bird, to soar so effortlessly, to ride the wind, to be so free.

In Baja, you almost can....

La Tienda

Shopping in Loreto is an adventure, usually an all day adventure.
Up until a few years ago, there was one super market in town and many small neighborhood markets. Fruits and vegetables were usually bought Sunday at the Tionges, sort of a cross between a farmers market and a flea market.
Now we have a super market and Walmart like department store. But shopping is still an adventure. Produce is what is grown in the area, tomatoes and a multitude of peppers are usually always available, Other fruits and vegetables come and go with seasons. When you shop, you buy what is available, not what's on your list.
Right now fresh strawberries are coming in, about 80 cents a pint... yum

Shopping for groceries is really pretty easy, you can usually figure out what is what without too much trouble. Shopping for hardware is another story.  There are many hardware type shops, but without a Spanish vocabulary, it's a struggle.  I use Google translate to find basically what I need, that works as a starting point. One day I was looking for an electrical box and some foam pipe insulation. I knew where the electric supply shop was, so.... nope they didn't have one.  So off to the plumbing supply shop, nope no pipe insulation.... but I found the electric box!  Then I asked where to find the pipe insulation?  Of course, back at the electric supply shop!  It usually takes several trips to accomplish your goals, but in the process, each day my Spanish improves.

The other thing to know is, when you see something you might want, buy it t, because when you return, it will be gone. Pretty much doesn't matter what it is. DeeDee found some wine on sale at one of the grocery stores, a decent looking Cabernet, just $60 pesos, that's about $3.50 with the exchange rate as good as it is. She bought a bottle to try, after all they had 10 case on the floor. The wine was quite good, so we went back the next day to stock up...... no mas!!

You may not find everything you want here, but there is everything you need... It's kind of like a Treasure Hunt, and it's fun

Dawn

In the Northeast, dawn seems to slither in slowly, a little daylight, then a bit more, then it's almost day, finally the sun shows it's brilliance. Down here in Baja, it's different. It's dark, then there's a brief pastel glow, then, like a light switch, the sun pops up and it's day.

Locals here in Loreto are not early risers, with the exception of the pangaleros and fishermen. Nothing really gets going until about 8:00 AM, and then, like the sun popping up, everything happens. The many birds are singing away, the water truck drives by at exactly 8:20 blaring his advertising song on his crackly loud speaker, kids head to school in their perfect uniforms, the town comes alive.

The Climb

I'm pretty sure every climb I've ever done has started the same way. It doesn't seem to matter if its a 60 foot sport climb, a 2000 foot big wall or a daunting 200 foot ice climb. At first I gaze in awe and sometimes trepidation at the cliff that awaits. Then narrow my vision to find the general area of the route that will hopefully get me to the top. My vision narrows more to scope out the difficulties and the possible rest spots and belay ledges. Now to find the start, and where the first pitch may end. A more detailed looks as to where my first piece of climbing protection may be. Rope up. Rack up. Chalk up. On Belay. Find the first foothold, the first handhold. And most importantly, find the
groove.

Finding the groove was easy today. DeeDee, Ed, Ben and I went out to the small cliff we developed in the Oasis Primer Agua arroyo. The day was perfect, sunny skies, comfortable temperature and a slight breeze. A curious young heffer and steer followed us up the arroyo and watched us climb for several hours. They seemed disappointed when we left. As always it felt good to be on the rock again.
On the way out we met two local couples who had just completed one of the hikes in our guidebook. They enjoyed it and thanked us repeatedly for writing he book. We recommended several more hikes that they may enjoy, and made tentative plans to get together for cards.
Life in Loreto can be one continuous social gathering, and what's wrong with that?

Pinturas Rupestres

A friend of ours, Butch, (aka Happy Harry) who is staying up in Buena Ventura near Mulege has told us about a nice canyon near Bahia Concepciõn with many cave paintigs, Pinturas Rupestres.

DeeDee and I hop in the Jeep, pick up Ed and Mabel and head north. Mabel is a young Californian down in Loreto, apprenticing to become a kayak guide.

25 clicks (kilometers) from Loreto we stop at the Military Checkpoint, one of many along the Baja peninsular. A young soldier asks us to step out of the car for the routine search. I have a conversation with his Sargent. We talk about the weather and how little traffic there is. I try as best I can using my barely adequate Spanish. He seems to enjoy the conversation as much as I do. Some folks get annoyed with the checkpoints, but it's just part of Baja. My guess is that, the more annoyed you appear, the longer they will search. I would if I was them!

At Km marker 74 we meet Butch sunning himself by the roadside. We pile into his Cherokee and head out on a good dirt road into the unknown. The desert is still green from the early winter rains. Giant Cardon cactus loom high above us, Palo Adãns are just starting to show their fiery red blossoms, cactus wrens flit about as buzzards stand guard. Soon we are along the western shore of Bahia Concepciõn. We pass several fish camps, the aroma is unmistakable. A pair of Chihuahuas attack our tires viciously as we pass. After several miles we turn onto a less traveled dirt track. We weave in and out of Mesquite trees and cactus, slowly maneuvering around sharp rocks and boulders. Eventually we arrive at the flat and sandy mouth of the canyon where we park. Not surprisingly, there are no other vehicles.

The canyon is about 50 feet wide with walls on either side reaching up a hundred feet or more. We don our packs and are immediately greeted with faint pictographs of fish, turtles and one of an upside down person apparently diving into the water. Throughout the canyon there are many more, some quite faded, others in remarkably good condition. Most are reddish with a few in black. We continue to wander up the canyon for nearly 3 miles. At several points the canyon narrows to 10 feet or so, the ground is moist and green plants thrive. We are startled by a beautiful horse grazing alone, maybe he is more startled than us. He snorts his displeasure and gallops by, towards the safety of the open desert. All around us are signs of life, holes dug in the sand, fox scat, coyote tracks and many birds.

After a quiet lunch we meander back to the car, relax in the shade with a few cervezas.

The sun is beginning it's evening descent. We bid adios to Butch, thanking him for a great day and make a plan to hike again soon. We head south, back to Loreto. We pass through the checkpoint with just a friendly wave...

Alley Cat

Dust, that is one thing there is plenty of in Baja. Luckily, the street behind our trailer was paved last year, so maybe not so much dust this year. It's been breezy every day, in the 20's (celsius)  70's F. Great hiking weather.
Yesterday the winds died down. Ben was itching to get out on the boat. Ben's boat, The Alley Cat, is an awesome old trawler that he sailed down from California, quite the trip at 6 knots! The boat is anchored this morning off the Malecon, the waterfront causeway that borders the sea in front of Loreto. We pack some food, beer and tequila and head over to Isla Coronado.
The water is calm. Along the way we see  Blue Whales spouting in the distance with their giant tails waving as they dive. Pelicans pass by in formation just inches above the water, curious gulls check us out and a lone Blue Footed Boobie glides overhead searching for sardinas. We anchor in a small protected bay surrounded by perfect white beaches, and rocky outcrops. The water is as clear as I've seen. A school of large fish races by, a sea turtle, a sting ray, vultures and scissor tailed frigates soar in the thermals.....  life is good

There are no houses on this volcanic Island. A few fishermen pass by heading to or back from the other side of the island where yellowtail roam. A few  pangas line the beach while scattered tourist and locals swim, snorkel and beachcomb. Don Alley and his wife Paula pull up along side, a few moments later, our friends Robert and Christy, Margaret and Philip also join us. We lash the boats along side.  All had been fishing out past Isla Carmen, unfortuately for them, the fish won today.

We all have lunch and beers as Don plays his guitar and sings his song "Kayak Pirates of Loreto" He is one of many talented musicians that dwell here in Loreto. Some more songs, more beers and some tequila as the sun makes it's way sinking into the Sierra Giganta. Our two fishing boat amigos speed off to port as we chug along in awe of the all encompassing beauty surrounding us. Manta Rays celebrate in every direction trying their hardest to fly, or maybe just leaping up to catch the sunset....

Ahhh Mexico

Our plane lands in the small Loreto airport, I can feel the world slow down. We are on the only plane landing today, Our friend Ben picks us up at the gate and drops us at our palapa and trailer. We throw our bags in the door, there's lots to do, but it can wait, mañana.
First a cold beer, and then stroll down to visit  our neighbors. Jerome, Etta, Fred, Dallas and Mary, all from Alaska, and of course Brent, the Mayor of Rivera Del Mar! After few more beers, we head back to the trailer, there's lots to do, but mañana.
We walk down town to Ben and Jill's home for dinner. The streets are quiet, we pass a few locals and exchange greetings, a few cars slowly pass, everything moves slowly in Loreto.  Our friends Ron and Peter join us for Jill's home made meatloaf, not exactly a Mexican dinner, but great just the same. a little tequila and cards.are there, Peter is a dessert-aholic, and always makes something outrageously good, tonight it was fresh peach pie with vodka pie crust!  A few tequilas and cards, a few more tequilas and a easy stroll home. There's a lot to do, but mañana.

The literal translation of mañana, I always thought, was 'tomorrow', the real translation is 'not today'.... works for us.

Popsicle Toes?

January 8...
We leave Maine in good weather, a little snow on the ground after a really warm November and December. Bart picks us up at the San Diego airport, the weather here is a predictable 70 degrees.
Two and a half days of incredibly good food and wine, the west coast has great seafood. January 9, one more birthday, and a first, I have a pedicure! The poor girl that had to work on my feet! Then a great calamari salad, oysters, sashimi and local IPA in La Jolla. Swordfish, clams, calamari and shrimp cooked by Cathy for dinner...  seafood heaven, and of course great wine....

On to Loreto, so much for being pampered

The Worst Day Ever....

About six months ago I had to hear the words that no parent should ever hear, that your daughter has cancer.

Your life changes in a heartbeat, what once was important, doesn't even exist. A million thoughts permeate your brain on a daily basis.

Fortunately, Jessica is a tough kid, and after the initial shock, she took on the "C" demon head on, all the while dealing with 4 kids, marital issues and all that goes with it.

Being down can drive some into the ground, while others can rally. Her family circled the wagons, worked hard to make sure Jessica had the right food, got the rest and love she needed. And tons of positive vibes.

The reward came today, when her oncologist gave her a bright green light, the cancer is in remission...  no radiation needed, no more chemo...

The Best Day Ever